With the onset of newer drive trains in older street rods or muscle cars becoming an issue with angles and attachments on the back of the trans. we have come up with a new solution. over the years the owner of the company has done this for close friends and his own fleet of cars but realized its time to make production parts available for this. So weather you have a LS motor with a T56 magnum or a new TR6060 under your 69 Chevelle and have angle questions or concerns you have come to the right place. in order for us to design this sort of shaft (does not matter if it has a slide in yoke or a 3/4 finger mount on the back of the trans with a pin sticking out) we will need to know angle dimensions. We can and have engineered shafts for just about any combination and with help from you we can make the car as smooth as you want it to be. what needs to be done 1st is angle measurements from the motor/trans- then run a string or a small piece of wood from the center line of the trans to the center line of the diff and see what the shaft would be, then we would need a measurement from the diff. Do these dimensions on the car at the same time, dont worry about if the car is flat or not. its the difference between the parts that we are interested in. not the number you have on any one part.
when doing a shaft like this there is a few variables that will come into play so we need to see this info 1st, if we put a CV where its not needed it will cause a Vibration so this is very important. just a quick back ground, when talking about CV joints VS U-joints the terms are just that a CV joint is constant velocity, what goes in comes out at the same velocity, a u-joint on the other hand is a varying velocity speeding up and slowing down with each revolution, to much angle and this can not be "tamed" One of the rules of the u-joint is cancellation, this means the velocity of the one end need to be canceled by the velocity of the other end. this is why we pay attention to angles so closely on a u-joint set up, the rule here is operating angles can be no greater then 3 degrees (the number between each part) and from one end to the other no more then 1/2 a degree off. Now i will just throw this in here, this is a test book version of what you want to achieve. I will say i have had system off from this and work perfectly and i have also had ones perfect give issues, this has to do with harmonics but thats a lesson for another day (we can help with that also) So a what has to be done is this. with a U-joint on both ends the shaft will speed up and slow down every revolution (varying Velocity) so with a u-joint on each end the angles have to be equal and no greater than 3 degrees from each other (this is not 3 degrees on one part but the difference between the 2) here is an example: the motor and trans is at 5 degrees down (back of the trans is lower) the drive shaft then leaves heading down at 8 degrees (back of shaft is lower than the front) this is a 3 degree operating angle. Now the reason we need to know angles is if the same driveshaft was going the other way meaning the shaft left the trans and went UP to the diff this angle would change allot. If the trans was pointing down the same 5 degrees and the shaft then went up at 8 degrees you would need to have the joint go from 5 , back to zero plane and then over the other size of zero to 8 so this wold actually be 13 degrees of movement (this is a exaggeration for teaching purposes, the most we want to have on either angle is 9 degrees) this is where most of you reading are thinking the issue may be.
ok with this in mind we have basic engineering rules to understand, if we put a CV on the front of this set up we would eliminate the varying velociry on the front, sure not a problem (that's after i asked yo to get it under 9 degrees of difference) but no we have a Varying velocity joint in the back so we can let it move enough to need cancellation as there is no energy to help cancel from the trans end.
. so what we do is set the pinion angle @ 1 or 1.5 degrees of operation, this is enough to let the u-joint move and let the rollers of the joint pick up grease and lube itself. Just a quick note here about that. in the 40 years we have been doing this materials have improved, heat treat methods and grease itself not to mention seal technology. we use a solid joint in this application because its sealed with a double lip on the cup and a much higher grade grease is used, a u-joint with a grease fitting that some like it not welcome here, 1st reason i gave already superior grease and double lip seal. the other reason is the grease fitting joint is made to excrete grease during operation. so the way it works is you put grease in, it spins and lets grease out (mostly all over you pride and joy) this is not good on either account. a u-joint run at Zero degrees is 100 efficient, yes the joint will wear out sooner then one running at an angle but the new breed of joints will last 50-60,000 miles before showing any sign of wear so dont let this old urban legend cloud what we are trying to fix with this style shaft.
This is not a part that can be ordered, its just showing what can be made. use the contact page and we can design the shaft you need. We have CV mounts for most transmissions and can make them for any application, also have CV mounts for both 9" and 12 bolt rear ends. Prices will range using CV in the front with a u-joint in the back from 849.99 in aluminum to 1400.00 in carbon.
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